STRAIGHT to the heart of the country was the interesting excursion we had planned. Our destination was the beautiful new federal capital Brasília. So much had we heard about it, we felt we must see it ourselves, especially since a highway was now completed and officially open. BR-14 it is called.
This two-lane road cuts in almost a straight line from the old Amazon River port city of Belém some 1,360 miles southward to Brasília. Not until the late 1950’s did workers start building this modern city high on a plateau in central Brazil. In April 1960 it became the country’s capital. Now we looked forward to the four-day bus trip over jungle highway BR-14 to Brasília.
Interest Aroused
It had always been difficult to realize how such a project as this highway could ever be accomplished. Many thought it impossible, from the engineering point of view, to bridge those big rivers and cross that swampy land. Imagine, too, penetrating areas infested with snakes, lizards, jaguars and other dangerous creatures! And then there were the obstacles of dampness, disease and contaminated drinking water.
Nevertheless, construction on the road began in 1958. The go-ahead signal was given by the then President Juscelino Kubitschek, who was also chiefly responsible for promotion of the new capital at Brasília. This road was to be one of the greatest achievements of Brazil in terms of skill and benefits for the country. It would open up areas virtually cut off from the industrialized southern part of Brazil. Our interest was thoroughly aroused by the press notices recounting the various steps as the project moved forward.
Chief engineer Bernardo Sayão, with a few thousand workmen and considerable equipment, opened up work simultaneously in the south at Tocantins River and in the north at Guamá River. Small clearings were made here and there along the route so helicopter-borne surveyors could do their job in the midst of the jungle. Workmen had to cross rivers, slash through undergrowth and fell majestic timber stands. Thus the way was opened for the tractors to come in and start their vast operations.
Disease did take its toll of the workmen, many of them dying. Then just two weeks before the crews from north and south met, engineer Sayão, while resting in his tent under a big tree, was struck by a falling limb. He died of the injuries.
Despite the hardships, nearly one year after commencement of construction the two crews met, and a trial run over the road was made. Though ferries were necessary at that time, these were later replaced by wooden bridges, and now fine concrete bridges are being constructed. The initial opening cost came to nearly $30 million. Total cost till now, however, has mounted to $300 million, including labor, equipment, installations and upkeep.
Traveling the New Route
Having served as a woman missionary in Brazil for over ten years, I was keenly interested in seeing this new route that promised to open up new fields for the spread of the Bible’s message. Some claimed there were many unfriendly Indians and wild animals. Others said it was a worthwhile educational trip, just to see this miracle of modern engineering. So I assumed the typically Brazilian point of view—Só vendo (one has to see for oneself). Thus one day in July an elderly lady friend and I boarded the bus in Belém about 6 a.m., and were soon heading south on BR-14.
Though unpaved, the route was not too bumpy, since it consisted mainly of hard-packed red earth. I had expected to see vines and bushes crowding to the road’s edge, but instead was surprised to find that a broad strip on each side of the route was cleared. Here and there clear, open fields could be seen, interspaced with the higher jungle growth.
On the first day out we were delayed somewhat by a flat tire. Fortunately, a little tree offered us passengers shelter from the broiling tropical sun. Then came a lunch stop at a small settlement—a few houses, one of which had been converted into a restaurant. The tables were set home-style, food was plentiful, and the price, no matter how much one took from the large bowls and platters, was only one dollar. The menu was varied—boiled chicken, beef, pork, potatoes and the Brazilian’s everyday dish of beans and rice.
About 5 p.m. came the long-awaited relief from the heat as the sun set, and again it was time to stop, this time for dinner around 6 p.m. and a night’s rest. The little hotel was furnished with beds and straw mattresses, as well as something even better for these warm nights, namely, hammocks. The shower stalls were busy, so we simply had to wait our turn with towel, soap and change of clothes in hand. It was a task to remove the red dust that had accumulated during the first day’s ride.
The roadway, in the rainy season, becomes practically impassable. In March and April of 1964 some 200 trucks were stuck at one time, occasioning considerable loss through deterioration of merchandise. Happily we were traveling during the dry season, which lasts from about June to September. Although everything is so dusty, surely this is to be preferred to getting stuck far from the settlements!
People at these settlements, by the way, are very friendly. These folks came in and built their settlements immediately on completion of the road, so they could carve out a new life in the wilderness, and perhaps make a living out of service for travelers. Many of these places are still without electricity, hemmed in somewhat by the nearby dense jungle. At first, only one bus line kept them in touch with the world outside, but now there are daily bus schedules with waiting lists. The fare per passenger is just slightly over $20 one way.
As we travel along it is interesting to learn that there are about 175 different species of trees here—some of them very much in demand in the production of oils, fats, rubber, dyes, matchboxes, paper, and timber for rough construction or fine furniture. At present these vast forest resources are being mapped out by the government. In fact, it is already known that in one part of the state of Goiás, through which we passed, there is the “greatest concentration of mahogany known to exist in the world today.” The production of beans, rice, manioc, corn, sugarcane, oil-producing palm trees and other crops is expected to make this region prosperous.
Benefits to the Country
The traffic we observe on the route bears out the expectation that this project would open up a commercial artery over which the commodities of the industrial south would reach the north, and the raw materials of the vast Amazon basin would reach the south. Indeed, well over three-quarters of the traffic is cargo, while only a small percentage is passenger service.
There is no doubt, too, from what we see, that large sums of money are being invested in agriculture, industry, general development and construction along this Highway BR-14. In the fast-growing Paragominas area of Goiás State, where the rich, fertile land is relatively low-priced, there are all the signs of swift development.
The Belém-Brasília Highway has definitely opened up a new phase of Brazil’s social and economic life. The once-lonely Amazon region, now linked by highway with the rest of the country, beckons pioneer developers. Paving of the highway is the next step, and there is no doubt that this will promote tourist travel too, for plans are being made to have modern motels and gasoline stations strategically located every 150 miles or so.
And now the capital. As we enter Brasília at dusk of the fourth day, we are impressed by the lofty, well-spaced, ultramodern government buildings and residential apartments. As we ease into the bustle of the city, it is quite a sensation to skim along the smooth, brightly lit “freeway.” We have reached journey’s end.
We can envision in the near future a more leisurely trip over the same ground. Then there will be more opportunity to examine the scenery, the exotic birds and plant life, the mighty rivers and perhaps even some of the abundant wildlife. And the thought pops into mind that, with God’s new order now near at hand, much of the development of this area may well come when this old system with its commercial exploitation is gone.
No comments:
Post a Comment